THE WHO: Stuart Wise, a Shoreditch SkinheadTHE WHERE: BrightonTHE WHEN: 1980s
©John G Byrne/PYMCA

THE WHO: Stuart Wise, a Shoreditch Skinhead
THE WHERE: Brighton
THE WHEN: 
1980s

©John G Byrne/PYMCA

THE WHO: ReneTHE WHERE: Bronx, NYTHE WHEN: 2011
©Paul Vickery/PYMCA

THE WHO: Rene
THE WHERE: Bronx, NY
THE WHEN: 
2011

©Paul Vickery/PYMCA

PYZINE is very proud to announce an incredible new photographer in our ranks, ©Paul Vickery. 

PYZINE is very proud to announce an incredible new photographer in our ranks, ©Paul Vickery. 

THE WHO: John Galliano & ModelTHE WHERE: LondonTHE WHEN: 1986
©Hartnett/PYMCA

THE WHO: John Galliano & Model
THE WHERE: London
THE WHEN: 
1986

©Hartnett/PYMCA

THE WHAT: Classic advert for subculture clothingTHE WHERE: UKTHE WHEN: 1970s
©Ted Polhemus/PYMCA

THE WHAT: Classic advert for subculture clothing
THE WHERE: 
UK
THE WHEN: 1970s

©Ted Polhemus/PYMCA

A date for the diary… 

Snapshot surveillance by photographer and writer, Hartnett.

POSING FOR THE BLAGGING BLOGGERS

London Fashion Week

12-16 September 2014

Culture and style are a symbolic aspect of our resistance, our determination, to be identified as different from others, to have something we can say that is our own, which sets us apart from others. 

Clothing can identify the wearer with a particular set of values, beliefs or interests, when executed in a genuine manner. People with real style know that being a show-off is naff.

Suzy Menkes, grande dame of couture journalism, recently remarked, ‘London is a perpetually renewable source of originality and quirkiness.’ Thanks, Suzy.

That sense of originality and quirkiness is not restricted to London only, clearly, but catwalking through the capital city you will very occasionally see a fabulous pick ‘n’ mix of raw-edged innovation alongside the identikit poseurs who are one gigantic DON’T at London Fashion Week.

The concept of street style is… now… somewhat dated, if not dead. It has become a circus for exhibitionists, away from grass roots ways of dressing. It’s all about ‘looks’, contrived for the cameras, all about a snapshot moment to push profile with a thumbnail-sized pic, pimping product placement with a desperate soundbite. Where’s the individualism in that?

This shambles known as street style is more about being publicised than it is about gritty edge, innovation or originality. PRs are at play during the feeding frenzy for blagging bloggers who nine times out of ten don’t know the difference between an early adopter and a lazy laggard, going with the flow. Where there’s affluence there’ll always be front row effluence and that’s miles away from being ‘down with the kids’.

Technology, the Internet, is killing trends before they can mature, gobbled up and Googled, spat out by WGSN and other FFs. The transmission of trends is often manipulative and exploitative, bringing a discreet cult to a swift end.

Read More

THE WHAT: Alternative YouthTHE WHERE: Mexico City, MexicoTHE WHEN: 2013
©William Villafaña/PYMCA

THE WHAT: Alternative Youth
THE WHERE: 
Mexico City, Mexico
THE WHEN: 2013

©William Villafaña/PYMCA

THE WHAT: Northern Soul fansTHE WHERE: UKTHE WHEN: 1990s
©Jonas Unger/PYMCA

THE WHAT: Northern Soul fans
THE WHERE: 
UK
THE WHEN: 
1990s

©Jonas Unger/PYMCA

Snapshot surveillance by photographer and writer, Hartnett.

STREET STYLE ECHO

With the vintage photographs that I collect, I feel a strong link to the past, from the manner in which subjects were posed, right down to the basic photographic techniques that those largely unknown photographers adopted, similar to my own approaches, avoiding complexity.

Street-style photography, quite a different thing to street photography, resonates with tradition. 

The way subjects position themselves, pose for the camera, links them with the dawn of photography, the early days of studios, travelling tintypists, the craze for postcards on which family snaps could be mailed to friends and family.

Read More

THE WHAT: Man sits on beach with a DobermanTHE WHERE: Chicago, USATHE WHEN: 1997
©Richard Braine/PYMCA

THE WHAT: Man sits on beach with a Doberman
THE WHERE: 
Chicago, USA
THE WHEN: 
1997

©Richard Braine/PYMCA

THE WHAT: Group sitting on mopedsTHE WHERE: LondonTHE WHEN: 1990s
©Phil Knott/PYMCA

THE WHAT: Group sitting on mopeds
THE WHERE
London
THE WHEN: 
1990s

©Phil Knott/PYMCA

THE WHO: Twin Towers, Ronald and Dino THE WHERE: Astor Place Barbershop, New York, USATHE WHEN: 1991
©Janette Beckman/PYMCA

THE WHO: Twin Towers, Ronald and Dino 
THE WHERE: 
Astor Place Barbershop, New York, USA
THE WHEN: 
1991

©Janette Beckman/PYMCA

Snapshot surveillance by photographer and writer, Hartnett.

I don’t wanna go to Chelsea, as King’s Road is just a rotten ol’ high street now. As for the style-triathalon of the Hoxton, Shoreditch and Bethnal Green traingle, no ta. Full of bearded zombies.

When I’m out and about in London, my cameras are drawn to one place and one place only, the beehive of Bill Bennett’s Camden store, Oi Oi The Shop in Camden. 

Head for the basement of Stables Market, and there you’ll find an outlet that wipes The Last Resort away, that being the skin shop where photographers such as Stuart Henry, Gavin Watson, Nick Knight and I snapped early 80s skins. 

Part Heritage street-style musuem, part youth club, part crash-pad, Oi Oi The Shop has a social edge, away from the ring of the cash register. It’s a place to connect with others, far more instant and meaningful that Internet wanking about on Facebook and Twatter.

It’s the skinternational skins who are turning heads, working trad in a mesmerising way, passing on the baton of style.

Authentic. Fresh. 

Raw. Real.

Oi Oi The Shop
455 Stables Market
(Basement)
Chalk Farm Road
London
NW1 8AH

facebook.com/oioitheshopcamden

hartnett.uk.com

All Images and Text ©Hartnett/PYMCA 

THE WHAT: A guy blowing a hornTHE WHEN: 2010THE WHERE: Notting Hill Carnival
©Teddy Fitzhugh/PYMCA

THE WHAT: A guy blowing a horn
THE WHEN: 2010
THE WHERE: Notting Hill Carnival

©Teddy Fitzhugh/PYMCA